A cruising guide to the
Channel Islands

If you have a spare couple of weeks and a half decent weather window (we know that’s already asking a lot!), then life jacket up for a UK sailing adventure of a lifetime.  We think the Channel Islands, with their warmer climate, challenging sailing conditions, and being far enough away to lose sight of land on the voyage, offer a great adventure to satisfy most sailing itches.

Covid made sailors fall in love with this group of islands like never before, and it’s easy to see why.  Pretty much any mention of the Channel Islands is always followed by ‘in the world’ — whether that is the busiest sailing region, busiest shipping lane, strongest tidal currents, most challenging tidal conditions, largest tidal ranges, or most beautiful bays and beaches.  It seems this archipelago in the English Channel is the perfect blend of an exhilarating, challenging sail for enchanting island-hopping adventures.

In fact, if you ignore the English part, the very word archipelago already conjures images of sun-soaked beaches, and transparent waters.  And perhaps, surprisingly enough, that is exactly what you get.

The Channel Islands are only a one day or night sail away with nearly all the key ports within an easy day’s sail apart once you arrive.  The uniqueness of each island is what adds to the appeal. Two weeks cruising around here offers an endless opportunity to never get bored. If you’re not planning your tidal approaches then you are visiting sandbars, swimming with dolphins, snorkelling in protected marine environments, exploring secluded bays, dipping into natural pools or partying with the chicness of the French riviera.

We have pulled together our collective knowledge to create a two part cruising/pilotage guide to the wonderful Channel Islands.

What you should know

If you are coming from the Solent, wind direction is everything and is likely to dictate your exact departure point.  The nearest disembarkation point is Alderney: 61 nautical miles from Old Harry’s Rock to Braye Harbour or 54 nm from Portland Marina.

For first-timers, most prefer the slightly easier route to Cherbourg first (bring a passport); cover the 65 nm then take a rest overnight, stock up on wine and then hop down to Alderney.  The shortest possible crossing point is from Weymouth to Alderney itself, sitting 54 nm from Portland Bay, we say short lightly, as ever it is weather and tide that will dictate your crossing time but make the most of the ebb and stay well up tide as you approach the narrow entrance.  It is an excellent stop over before sailing on to Jersey or Guernsey.

At only 3 miles long and 1.5 miles wide, experience the slower pace of life in beautiful Sark. Spend the night and marvel at the vast night skies; as the world’s first dark sky island, helped by the absence of streetlights, and we think it is an unmissable experience for any visitor. With only 500 residents and a total ban on cars, it is truly an island where time has stopped; a place to walk, stargaze and possibly yoga.

Guernsey

Victor Hugo described Guernsey as a rock of hospitality and freedom, having spent his 14-year exile from France here.  Although we hesitate to contradict a literary genius, we believe it doesn’t fully capture its essence.  You might be able to circumnavigate Guernsey on foot in a day, but that doesn’t stop it from overflowing with culture, charm, adventure, and beauty. From neolithic graves to Victorian forts, piratical escapades to Nazi occupation and the evacuation of the entire population in the Second World War, history has left its indelible mark on these shores.

St Peter’s Port is often described as one of the most beautiful port cities in all of Europe. Brimming with colourful Georgian houses and quaint cobbled streets – it’s a far cry from its swashbuckling past but the capital is still awash with history.  Visit Victor Hugo’s house, Hauteville, where he penned most of his masterpieces, including Les Miserables, and marvel at the incredible interiors that he designed and furnished himself.  Wander through the colourful horticultural gardens or take a delightful sightseeing ride on the Petit Train, before visiting the 800-year-old Castle Cornet with far reaching views over the surrounding islands and all the way to France, on a clear day.

If you choose to dock at the marina, note that access is restricted by a sill for 2.5 hours either side of high tide.  The friendly staff will guide you to a berth or direct you to the five holding pontoons just outside, if you miss the sill.

Right next to the harbour is Havelet Bay with good, sheltered anchorage, although due to the depths, you can’t get too close to the shore and there is often swell in the bay.

Chart a course for Fermain Bay, hidden away on the rugged South Coast and ideal for house daydreaming as you will sail past some of the island’s most eye-wateringly expensive properties. The only pebbly beach on the island, it’s a peaceful spot with wonderfully clear waters and a fabulous little beach café.

The only other marina open to visitors, is the attractive Beaucette Marina in the north of Guernsey.  Located in an old quarry, cleared by blasting out an area of granite rock. It is a sheltered and peaceful setting, much loved by boat owners for its tranquillity and close proximity to excellent walking routes.